An iron fallout remover is a chemical which is sprayed / added to an area affected by iron fallout – typically the wheels of a vehicle affected by brake dust – which reacts with and loosens said fallout to clear the affected area of the iron-based contaminants.
The key active product is sodium thiglycolate (thioglycolic acid), which reacts with the iron to leave the affected surface clear of contaminants following the wash.
Thioglycolic acid was first discovered by a scientist investigating why the protease enzyme could not break down hair, nails and skin, and was identified as a product which could actually do this.
In relation to metals, the acid was developed for its colour-changing function, in order to establish whether a batch of metal (usually aluminium or steel) was “bad,” or, in other words, contaminated with iron.
Once its iron removal properties were discovered, it became more widely used as a cleaning product.
Clay bars are the only other tool used to safely remove iron fallout from vehicle surfaces, but are far more time consuming and much less effective than a chemical cleaning process.
Now for the sciency bit. For those of you who don’t have much time or interest in the in-depth science of how a fallout remover works, here’s the short version:
The thioglycolic acid reacts with iron in its current state, turning it into another state which is easier to remove.
Now for the more involved version:
Iron (II) is oxidised by the thioglycolic acid into Iron (III) and thereby is molecularly bonded to the acid ready to be rinsed off.
Iron II is missing two electrons, meaning that it is positively charged. An exothermic reaction takes place producing heat and causing the thioglycolic acid to lose some of its hydrogen atoms which are replaced by an iron atom, making the iron part of the acid compound which is then much easier to remove through rinsing.
There are many different Iron Fallout Removers on the market, and it can be difficult to know which one to choose. The best way is to try each one, but what is the professional valeter and detailer looking for from a fallout remover?
The quicker the product reacts, the more active product is likely to be in the ingredients. This saves time, and increases the effectiveness of the clean by ensuring that the fallout remover solution has as much active product included in its recipe as possible.
The thicker the solution, the longer the contact time, therefore meaning that the reaction is taking place on the desired area for longer. There is a balance, as if the product is too viscous only a fraction of the liquid will achieve surface contact, so a balance between the two provides the best results.
As mentioned earlier, the active ingredient in an iron fallout remover was discovered first to be able to dissolve hair, nails and other body parts. Therefore, great care must be taken to protect one’s bodily parts from contact with the cleaning product.
It is also worth noting that the active product also smells quite pungent. It is highly recommended to use the product in a well-ventilated environment.
An iron fallout remover is not suitable for use on all surfaces, as it can react with iron molecules which are actually supposed to be there, such as on the brakes themselves.
Most areas of modern vehicles should be safe to clean with an iron fallout remover, but consider carefully which areas of older vehicles are safe to clean.
The chemical should not be allowed to dry out, nor should it be left for a prolonged period of time on any surface of the vehicle.
Information on the Power Maxed Iron Off Fallout Remover can be viewed here: https://www.xscent.co.uk/products/iron-off-fallout-remover
Your car is usually the second most expensive purchase most people make in their lives; it’s an important piece of kit and sees a lot of use. For most people their car is used daily, to continue this constant use means that there must be some kind of maintenance. Let’s face it the interior of your car can get pretty dirty sometimes more so than the outside! Anyone with kids, pets or a busy lifestyle can relate.
A large majority of people clean the outside of the car but neglect the interior to help your car your car look good and avoid that musky or “old” smell here’s a some tips to help that task and keep your car smelling fresh and looking.
The best place to start and gear up for the task ahead is a simple clear out. This instantly shows the carpet you forgot about or even the few extra pounds down the side of the seat or under the car mat. Try to avoid building up the packets or news papers, this little habit will give you some motivation to keep on top of cleaning out the car, or eliminate this task again.
Any car owner should have access to a Hoover or a small hand held one that can be used in reach of where you park your car. If it’s not practical to Hoover your car out where you live, remember there are always powerful Hoovers at local petrol stations which are normally quite cheap. Handheld Hoovers are a really useful tool to keep stowed away, just charge it up and keep it handy especially if you have kids or
tackling stains, unfortunately stains happen. That bottle of drink you didn’t expect to be so fizzy, or that one time you let the little ones open something, there you go a nice stain on the carpet. To get your carpet clean, you will need specific cleaning products. For general marks, you can purchase a simple car interior cleaner. Wet down the carpet and let product sit for at least as long as the product description gives, don’t be afraid of a little elbow grease then scrub and vacuum the carpet. Always repeat these steps until the stain has gone, try to not to give up on the first attempt as quite frequently a stain is just that, a stain and will require some effort.
Most cars will lose that new car smell quite soon, but some will develop terrible odours inside. There are options for removing odours from the car interior. Before vacuuming the car, use some pre-hoover powder, this neutralises odours and will help to clean the carpet. Sprinkle a thin layer over the carpeting and allow the powder to sit for the recommended time, and then hoover the carpet. You can also pick use and air freshener or an odour neutralising spray designed for cars. Spray these into the carpet before and after hovering. Floor mats
Don’t forget to clean your floor mats, these protect the car’s interior and add safety. These mats are normally carpet or rubber. These mats should be cleaned in the same way as the rest of the interior. Rubber mats should be wiped over with warm soap and water, let the mats dry completely so you can see any remaining dirt and also for safety.
The tools needed for cleaning your carpets are fortunately minimal. To clean your car’s interior and carpets you’ll need;
These are suggestions, just tailor the options to your specific need.
So, you have a dazzlingly clean car/bike/HGV/helicopter/boat/[insert other vehicle here], and you want to keep it looking this way as long as possible. You may also be conscious of the long-term benefits of sealing the paintwork against the elements such as UV damage (let’s all take a moment to remember any red pre-2000 Vauxhalls which were once red but are now a pitifully misty pink).
Paintwork without any protective layers is not 100% smooth. Zoom right in and the surface has peaks and troughs, just like a sound wave. This means a lot of surface area for accumulating UV and heat damage, oxidation (rust) and other negative side effects.
The best results are usually gained from using a good wax and a good sealant, which fills these troughs as the sealing process is repeated ensuring smooth, water and contaminant-repellent paintwork which requires minimal maintenance.
A paint sealant is a highly efficient way to seal your vehicle, and, if done frequently enough, can render a wax unnecessary. However, most will choose to both seal and wax their paintwork, and there is an ongoing debate about which should come first.
In our opinion, sealant comes first…
When using a sealant, it’s great at nano-bonding to the paintwork and doesn’t require the manual effort of application using the microfibre applicator which can be so time consuming. It can simply be sprayed over the vehicle and spread using a microfibre cloth before being rinsed away, or even rinsed straight off if used as a rinse-aid too.
You see, sealant bonds to the paintwork so effectively because it is a liquid sealant which cures, meaning that gravity directs it where it needs to go, right into those troughs in the paintwork, and the curing process means that on a microscopic level the sealant basically becomes the little spoon within the big spoons of the paintwork. Lovely.
However, this means the peaks of the paintwork, those most exposed to the elements, are left unprotected. As mentioned earlier, if the sealant is topped up frequently enough, eventually those troughs will fill up with sealant and create a completely smooth surface, which for most detailers is the eventual goal. In the meantime, though, those peaks need protection.
When applying a hard wax to the vehicle, manual effort is required. But that’s a good thing (for us enthusiasts, anyway), because it means the wax reaches every shallow surface, including the top sides of those peaks. It will also cover the sealant, protecting this additional layer too.
Over time, the wax layer will build up until eventually the paintwork is completely smooth.
Sealant is a reasonably modern invention and it’s essentially an additional protective measure which lasts longer than wax and is easier to apply, so if you go longer than the recommended 3 months without waxing, you know your paintwork is still somewhat protected. For best results though, use both.
Power Maxed Car Wax: https://powermaxed.com/product/typhoon-carnauba-wax/
Power Maxed Sealant: https://powermaxed.com/product/bodywork-sealant/
]]>